We must admit to having driven past Cuco’s no less than a few hundred times without ever realizing its presence on Henderson Road, almost directly across from City Barbeque. Our thanks to WTVN’s John Corby and his Big Bass Brothers for dining at Cuco’s one Friday in late June, and reviewing Cuco’s on the radio as “the best Mexican they have had in Columbus,” as attested by their giving Cuco’s an almost perfect rating of “four and a half bellies.”
After dining there on several occasions, we too rate Cuco’s the best Mexican we’ve had in Columbus. Sitting down with Upper Arlington resident and chef/owner Juan Morales, we found out why Cuco’s is different from all the others: the Mexican recipes are “unfiltered” (read: not watered-down for American palates), authentic re-creations of traditional Mexican cuisine. And, just because we say authentic, do not automatically think everything is fiery hot. Instead, think packed with wonderful flavors and ingredients you may not normally encounter.
Morales immigrated here 20 years ago from Guadalajara. Growing up, his father had a food stand where Juan worked from an early age. Juan attributes his love of authentic Mexican cuisine to both parents who were outstanding cooks in the home kitchen too. He partnered with others for a few years, and learned what he did not want to do – serve the Americanized, almost fast-food style, “Mexican.” Finally, in 2002 he was able to go off on his own with Cuco’s where he was determined to create a market for the authentic, “unfiltered” cuisine.
For instance, the imported cactus for the cactus salad ($3.95) is tender, flavorful, and topped with fresh tomatoes, onions and wonderful aromatic spice blends with citrus overtones. The ceviche is marinated in lime juice and salt and served with tomatoes, onions, cilantro and serranos (yes, the serranos have heat, but it is not overwhelming). You won’t find these dishes in many (if any) Columbus Mexican restaurants.
Our favorite, the reasonably priced ($4.95) appetizer Gringas, is large enough to serve as an entrée. It consists of two lightly grilled flour tortillas topped with imported Chihuahua cheese (similar to mozzarella but not as stringy), and morsels of pastor pork, which is pork shoulder sliced thin, marinated, then roasted with pineapple and onion, then finished on the griddle in its seasoned juices – a savory delight packed with flavor instead of heat. All of this is topped with lettuce and tomatoes. You get crunch, warmth, cheesy-tender meat morsels and the crisp cool vegetables all in one bite.
In another break from the everyday, breakfast is served daily from 8 a.m. Of course, there are huevos rancheros, but also omelettes, pancakes, French toast, chillaquiles with chorizo and moyetes (think breakfast brushetta).
Lunch entrees are numerous, and range from $5.25 to $6.25, and include various combination plates of chiles rellenos, tacos, burritos, enchiladas, flautas and salads.
Appetizers (average $5.50) include vegetarian selections such as the wild mushroom or spinach quesadilla, and seafood choices such as the ceviche, or marinated and grilled shrimp selections.
Dinner combos ($6.99 to $7.99) are what you expect to find in a Mexican restaurant, but the flavors are not what you are used to – they are bold, but not necessarily hot/spicy.
Specialties of the house include various chicken, steak and shrimp preparations, generally $6.95 to $10.95. One of the best, the Pollo Relleno is a chicken breast stuffed with chorizo and cheese ($9.50). All diners may help themselves to the salsa bar, especially those who want to go for the heat. There are four selections ranging from mild to “call the fire department:” (1) pico de gallo – chunky and mild; (2) Escaveche – hot with peppers, onions, carrots and vinegar; (3) green – tomatillos and serranos (medium hot); and (4) red salsa – the hottest, with dried chilies arbor and chipotle. The average diner will love the flavorful house salsa (brought automatically with house made nacho chips) which is tomato based and of mild/medium heat.
Cuco’s has a full bar and good selection of tequilas and margaritas ($4.50 to $7), and a good selection of Mexican beer ($3.25 for imports). A wine bar it is not, although there are one or two selections for nonconformists.
Cuco’s sells a wide selection of very colorful soccer shirts representing many of the local Mexican teams. There is also a tiny grocery section for the serious Mexican cook, providing a central source for such staples as mole, adobo, achiote paste, annatto, crema, Mexican coffee and a citrus spice blend.
Both catering and carry out are available. The kids’ menu has seven selections, including chicken strips, fish & chips and cheese quesadillas, most of which are $3.95.
Cuco’s
2162 Henderson Road
Columbus, Ohio 43220
614-538-8701
www.cucostaqueria.com